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Culture Shop: A cheapskate fashionista's guide to shopping in Bangkok

It is mind-blowing and yet strangely fitting that the words “bang” and “buck” (or in this case, “bak) could easily pass off as lexigrams* of the name Bangkok. This certainly vindicates the practitioners of the psychic wordplay as “bang for your buck” aptly describes the whole Bangkok experience. That is… if you have the cheapskate spirit.

Shop at every stop

This river city takes shopping to a whole new playing field with stores, malls, department stores, bazaars, and markets at every street corner. This is one place where even the most hopeless of shopaholics would flatline in impulse-buying overload.

Chatuchak, its most famous shopping destination, in itself has an area that is even bigger than the whole of Intramuros and much, much bigger than the night market in Suan Lum. It is, thus, not at all strange that no one, who has ever gone through its labyrinth of about 5000 stalls, has managed to finish it in one go. Yet despite the apparent chaos, more than 150,000 people brave the market each day.

Chatuchak is a merry mix of fashion items, books, antiques and home furnishing, plants, food, handicrafts, artworks and ceramics at dirt cheap prices compared to malls and department stores. Many people attest that prices in Chatuchak are the best in Thailand. Never leave the market without going to the section dedicated to young Thai designers who want to showcase their work. Standouts are Cupcake Design, Bambino, Pang Leather, Apil Chic, and Teen Uthai Custom knives.

Tourists will find anything and everything in Chatuchak except maybe… their way. With a crazy maze-like layout and stalls teeming with shoppers, getting lost is a guarantee. Although the map at the information center in Gate 1 helps, navigating the crisscrossing aisles is confusing, frustrating and did I mention, hot?

Bangkok’s version of “Divisoria” and “168” is probably Bobe and Platinum Mall. The Bobe wholesale street market that biyaheras swear by is a long stretch of cheap finds that are not necessarily cheap-looking. Unlike Chatuchak, it is open everyday from morning until late at night. Those who want cheap prices at mall (read: air-conditioned) convenience can go to Platinum Mall and the other two malls near the area. This is, purportedly, the go-to mall of Bangkok’s fashionista set. Suan Lum, the popular night market is also a must-see although most items sold there can already be found in Chatuchak. From the price perspective, it is best to go to Chatuchak, Platinum and Bobe to check the base price before heading off to the other shopping spots.

Fresh Blood

Malls like Gaysorn, Paragon and Siam Discovery, all conveniently located in Siam Square, offer a less chaotic shopping experience. The atmosphere is upscale and yet, not intimidating. Shopping is leisurely done, even static as if the quality of the product can speak for itself and yet, the air is also surprisingly, quite young. Think Greenbelt and Glorietta where designer boutiques, high-street brands and the local retail giants play house with the young professionals and urbanites.

Boutiques of Bangkok’s up and coming brands may be the attraction. FlyNow, for one, impresses right from its window display to the smallest neckpiece in its display case inside. Window dressing is kick ass. Designs are the right combo of rocker chic and boho. There are some unique, bordering on the odd, cuts that strangely work, even complementing the figure, when worn. Other local brands worth checking out are Lofty Bamboo in MBK; Senada Theory and Kloset in Gaysorn; EQ:IQ, Baking Soda, and 5 CM in Siam Discovery; and Jaspal in Paragon. At the outskirts of the Siam Center, there are a host of local boutiques and specialty shops that cater to the younger and hipper clientele. This area has earned for Siam Square an artsy reputation, much like the SoHo of New York.

Tricks of the “Train”

What is great (or worse depending on who's paying) about the markets and malls in Bangkok is their proximity to public transportation. All are within walking distances from the sky train (BTS) or the subway. Although fare is not exactly cheap, ranging from about 40 to 60 baht per ride— about P80 to P120— it is already a bargain if you factor in Bangkok’s traffic problem. A definite money saver if you are planning to tour the city on foot is BTS’s ride-all-you-can card, which is just 120 baht (P240) for one day. And get this, the train closes at 12 midnight, so you can even take it when shopping at the night markets. So plan your trips wisely.

Naturally, it is preferable to stay in a hotel that is close to the skytrains as opposed to mall proximity. While being near a mall is convenient, check the access first because you may have to actually go through the mall from the train or subway. This is not anymore convenient when getting back late at night. Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok easily comes to mind as most convenient since the hotel is just several steps away from the Saphan Taksin station and the pier. This gives tourists greater mobility even when sightseeing since a lot of the great sights in Bangkok can be seen (and accessed) from the Chao Phraya river. There are also cruises like the Shangri-La Horizon, which take tourists groups to the sights.

Money… Matters!

Maybe it’s the math but most tourists wouldn’t delve in the business of forex beyond the actual exchange of currency. But those looking for great bargains should brush up their conversion skills because currency can make a difference between cheap and expensive in Bangkok. Without going through a long diatribe of equations and numbers, the long and short of it is this: Between Philippine Peso and US Dollar, exchange the dollar. Just this October, peso was valued at 0.5 baht while a dollar’s value was 30 baht. That puts the peso-dollar exchange of P43 to just 21.50 baht. If there is no service tax, it might even be better if you convert peso to dollar and then have it converted to baht in Bangkok. This, of course, is not permanent advice. Exchange rates are erratic so the best thing to do is be aware and work those calculators!

Use cash sparingly if you can. When shopping abroad, credit cards are best because bank rates are generally better and more stable, plus you get points for using the card. Be careful though with hidden charges and service fees especially when withdrawing money from ATMs abroad. Clarify with the bank on their out-of-the-country purchase policies. Or better yet, go for credit cards with features meant for travelers. The Allied Bank Mabuhay Miles World MasterCard, for instance, gives separate peso and dollar billings, allowing their clients to pay in either currency plus a 1 mile/P33 mile conversion in Philippine Airlines (PAL). That’s on top of the doubled points earned when the card is used to purchase PAL tickets.

Here's another cheapskate secret in Bangkok: tourist discount cards. Tourists can get their cards when they present their passports in booths in malls like Siam Paragon, Emporium, Zen, Robinsons and MBK, where the card is honored. The card entitles tourists to a 5% discount. There is also a 7% refund with stores that have the “VAT Refund for Tourists” signage.

Nirvana for the cheapskate

Bangkok may be a haven for the spendaholics of the world but it is nirvana to the cheapskate. The “best bang for your buck”— endless selection, shopping convenience, excellent workmanship and reasonable prices— is the least that one can expect from the city that may have spawned the term “biyaheras.” For any cheapskate, that is just orgasmic!

For more information on Allied Bank Mabuhay Miles Mastercard, call 818-9-818 or log on to www.mabuhaymilesmastercard.com. For bookings in Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok and flight schedules to Bangkok, log on to kbsbookingonline.com or kbsthailand.com.

What you need to know when shopping in Chatuchak

1. Shopkeepers are more inclined to give the lowest price early in the morning. It opens on Saturday and Sunday at 7 AM.

2. Wear comfy clothes and shoes.

3. Start haggling at 50% of the price.

4. Hongnam is Thai for comfort room! Memorize the word. You’ll need it.

5. Maps are available in the information office in Gate 1. Or better yet, buy the Nancy Chandler Maps. She color-coded and illustrated the whole market.

Labels: Bangkok, Bazaar, budget buying, budget shopping, Chatuchak, cheapskate, commuting, fashionista, Paragon Mall, Thailand, Tiangge

posted by Amyline Quien Ching @ 9:41 PM 0 Comments

A Taste of Royalty

Bangkok is one city that can make gluttons of everyone.

While it is not popularly known to be an art and architecture capital like the great cities of Europe, its stunning architecture, grand palaces, exotic temples, and scrumptious street fares are opiates to the senses. Every square inch of Bangkok gorges the mind, drawing people in to take a closer look and leaving them wanting more. There are just too many sites to visit, a whole lot of shopping to do, and a great many exotic street foods to forage on that a three-day trip would not even begin to cover half of what Bangkok has to offer, unless you plan to follow a hop-in-hop-off itinerary a la Amazing Race.

By the River of Kings

A perfect solution for the “fly-by-tonight” tourists is a cruise along Chao Phraya, which literally means the "River of Kings.” Sailing through all piers, the river trip is the perfect side sampler to an all-city tour of Bangkok. From the boat, tourists can enjoy the sites and take pictures. One can even sample some of Thailand’s specialty dishes onboard or have a fill of its famed street foods.

Morning trips stop by each pier, giving tourists the chance to explore a number of historical and renowned sites by the river in record time. Most river cruises already have packaged lunch and a fixed itinerary but those wanting to travel to all the piers at their own pace can hire long-tailed boats for the day. Some boatmen can even serve as a personal tourist guide. The trick here is to have a well-planned itinerary. Hotel staff can help you with this as there are free maps available to tourists.

Most Bangkok landmarks are also accessible by taxis or tuktuks if tourists want to go farther into the city. For this, tourists should take the local express boats, which run on a precise schedule like a bus line. This is especially true for those who just want to stop at one or two piers. Fare ranges from 10 to 34 baht. This gives tourists great savings considering the cost of taxi fares in the city, not to mention the traffic. There are also romantic dinner cruises that provide a sumptuous feast juxtaposed with equally sumptuous eye candies.

Sights Sampler

Chao Phraya at night is a must-see with city lights showing off Bangkok’s many landmarks to their detailed glory. Temple of the Dawn is especially stunning at night as it glows against the black velvetine skyline. Its seemingly endless tiers are like golden steps that touch heaven, making it one of Thailand’s greatest cultural heritage.

Another majestic site that can be seen from the river is the Grand Palace. Towering over Chao Phraya, the royal grounds are formerly home to the royal family until King Rama VIII’s mysterious death inside the complex. His successor and the current King, Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), moved to Chitralada Palace. The Palace is only used now for ceremonial events.

Fortunately for tourists, the Palace’s yaksha-guarded gate is open to the public. Those thinking to only see its sweeping verdant gardens and plush exteriors are in for a greater treat as the Palace interiors, including the Chakri Throne Hall and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are open for viewing. The Chakri Throne Hall is where the Kings of Thailand receive foreign envoys and hold banquets for foreign monarchs. The hall’s centerpiece is the Coronation Throne, which sits on a marbled dais at the center flanked by white canopies and statues. This marvelous piece of historical art is still being used in royal weddings and coronations.

Though built for function, Bangkok’s bridges are in themselves works of art. The Rama VIII Memorial Bridge, for instance, is like a steel sculpture caught in mid-air tableau. Clean golden lines jut out from a central post, creating an interesting linear pattern that is awe-inspiring.

Thailand temples may number in the thousands, about 30,000, but each holds a different piece of Thai history and culture inside and gives off an old-world charm that is distinctly unique. Wat Kalayanamit, for instance, houses the biggest bronze bell in Thailand. It is here that tourists will find a very old stone pagoda from China. Wat Rakhang, on the other hand, is where tourists will find the former home of King Rama I before he was crowned. Lacquer and gilt cabinets adorn it and the walls have life-like murals of scenes from the country’s national epic, Ramakien. There are also two Catholic Churches built by the Portuguese that can be seen from the river, Santa Cruz Church and Holy Rosary Church.

Tour Degustation

Worth trying out is Shangri-La Bangkok’s Horizon Cruise, which combines a leisurely trip through the river with a lunch/dinner buffet that serves Thailand’s statement dishes. Here, the international chain takes its famed luxurious brand to the river with al fresco dining against the most memorable sights in Bangkok. There is no scrimping or dieting onboard as plates and plates of fresh giant prawns, mussels, oysters, and crabs await guests. Starters consist of slices of salmon, squid, tuna, and a variety of cold cuts. There is also the Spicy Grass Noodle Salad with Seafood and the sushi.

For the entrees, the “Pan-fried Red Snapper on Creamed Leeks with Red Wine Sauce” gets five stars. Fried just right, the fish is tender and juicy, letting off the creamy and intoxicating taste of the wine with every bite. “Gaeng Ka-ree Gai” (yellow curry with chicken) is another definite standout in the buffet line. Creamy-delicious, this traditional Thai dish titillates the taste buds with a barrage of tastes: sweet, peppery, spicy, and milky.

Lovers of spicy dishes would find nirvana in “Gaeng Kiew Waan Jae” (Green curry with vegetable and beancurd). The bitterness of the veggies and blandness of the beancurd blends well with spicy-sweet tang of the curry. Its only letdown is perhaps the lack of meat, although vegetarians in the cruise would have probably rejoiced. Another hit in the buffet lines is the Tom Yum. The classic Thai soup didn’t disappoint with overflowing ingredients and a spicy-sour taste.

Of course, a tour of gluttony would not be complete without sinful chocolate desserts, pastries, and homemade ice creams. The Horizon has a variety laid out but a definite standout is the Khanom Sa-rim (soya bean threads in chilled coconut milk) and their homemade coconut ice cream.

Sights, sounds, food, and fanfare, a cruise along the River of Kings is a tour fit for royalty. And while gluttony may be a mortal sin, surely traveling to an exotic country like Bangkok deserves some exemptions. After all, it is not every day that people can play Kings for a day.

Horizon Cruise is run by Shangri-La Bangkok. For reservations, check with your local tour operator or book online at www.shangri-la.com/Bangkok.

Labels: Bangkok, Chao Phraya, cruise, Grand Palace, King Rama VIII Bridge, Shangri-La Bangkok, Sta Cruz Church, temple of the dawn, Thailand, vacation

posted by Amyline Quien Ching @ 8:37 PM 0 Comments